Quad copter build with GO Pro and Matek F7

Just nearly finished my build . Using Matek F7 on a Matek F Chub with VTX.

Problem 1. the flight board wo’nt connect consistently to betaflight . Sometimes it flashes blue/ red and sometimes just red. Very intermittent communication . Also the Fchub is all red, and the flashware not updated form original.

Second. Not sure what cable is what on the avi out cable from the Go Pro . Its black/red /black /yellow.

Very frustrating as there is no LED guide that I know of to tell you what is what when it comes to the boards.

Could it be the communication between the 2 boards . Is the red only on the F7 meaning its just picking up 3 volts, and why is there no blue light on the FCHUB.

Should I power the board directly via the 5 volt link, regardless of the fact that the ribbon connector is meant to send 5 volts ?..isn’t it ???


Can we get links to the parts you used.

Have you checked for shorts with a continuity meter?

The PDB should power the FC via the ribbon cable.

Be very careful about plugging in a lipo. is case there is a wiring issue and you cook something.

you using the gopro for FPV?

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Usually the convention is that yellow is for video, so the yellow wire would got your VTX.

But as DomedFPV said, please add some links to the items you are using so we can try help and also test the things he suggested as there could be a problem with the soldering.

@DoomedFPV using a gopro for FPV is ok as long as its not for racing/freestyle quads as there is around 200ms of latency… so not great when flying 100Mph through trees, but for fixed wing FPV, or gentle long range quads you can do it. I also still think getting a dedicated FPV camera would be the better option as I think after gopro3, they no longer support AV out anymore.

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Yes to the go pro , and oh dear to having plugged the lipo in . Having said that i think i had everything wired okay .

Thats interesting . its a go pro 4 black. Which does have AV out , but maybe there is more to it than that ? Maybe a good idea though to run a dedicated FPV camera , as well as the GO pro . I could sink the movement of both on the gimbal, with only the FPV running on the VTX out.

Its actually the wiring loom having an additional black wire that throws me a wobbler . I would otherwise know where I am.

okay getting 5 volts from the PDB to the FC . Also when connected to battery only am getting what I presume is the right signal . Constant red with blue flashing. As for the RX to receiver it states 4 VS( or is it a 5?) and is actually running 4.7 volts . Which if it is 4 to 5 then its okay .

Is the problem with my usb connector me thinks or that Betaflight is just having a bad day, or have i got some settings wrong???

It had a hard time connecting and couldn’t find the software which once that little spin dryer turns on it never seems to go off.

Okay , one problem solved another gained . seemingly thought I had soldered for Ibus but actually I’d done it for Sbus . That sorted everything worked well and was straightforward, except for wiring the go pro.

However I now have a weight to power issue . The motors got really hot very quickly .

This is the breakdown.:

Sunny Sky kv 900 x 31085 . x 4

Props 10 x 3.8 x4

Quad copter : 984 grams

4 S 6600 14. 8 volt lipo : 533grams

choice of a 4000 3s 11.1 lipo: 339 grams

Gimbal with Go Pro: 276 grams

Problem was, the motors got really hot very quickly as within 20 seconds or so with gimbal and large battery. I have no chart nor expertise to work this out, so if anyone can help that would be great .

Could go back to a hexy if necessary but sort of like the quad , its a T500.

Any further help would be welcome as I surmise the props are perhaps now way out as they were for the Hex.

Thanks guys .

I think you may be under prop’d

Your using 10" props when 11 > 13" is recommended.

Can anyone else with more experience of this size offer any advice?

You should stick with the prop suggested by the motor manufacturer and as far as I remember for 900 kV they suggest 11" while for example for my 800kV I use 10" prop. the manufacturer of the motors will tell you also the current max from a specific setup (prop+kV = MAX current = choice of ESC + 20% extra for safe condition).