Venturing for the first time into the 4 in 1 ESC world and had a question regarding the wiring.
I’ve purchased the Cicada 20A 4 in 1 ESC and a Diatone F3 V3 FC with integrated PDB from Unmannedtech. My plan was for the battery pack voltage to go to the 4 in 1 first and then simply spur off from there to the battery pads of the FC. In principal that should be fine, right? I don’t need current sensing in my setup…
The other thing is that the pre-soldered battery pigtail leads (to which i’d attach an XT60 connector) on the 4 in 1, are very flimsy looking 16AWG cables. Running 4S i’d prefer atleast 14AWG or even 12AWG cables. Unfortunately the pads on the 4 in 1 for batt power are so small i’m tempted to wire up the battery lead to the much bigger pads on the FC with 12AWG cable and spur off from there down to the 4 in 1 with the existing 16AWG cable. Is that fine?
Here are links to the components i’m talking about:
Many thanks for taking the time to draw out a schematic. That’s great! It is what I had in mind. I will though, as I mentioned before change the power cables on the 4 in 1 to something thicker. Or is it really necessary?
It is not necessary, to chnage the cables to thicker ones…
Maybe watch this Video… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Avp8MurmeEY TIMES:
Soldering the power supply to the 4 in 1 ESC : 18:15 - 19:10
Soldering the Signal-Cables to the Flight Controller: 26:11 - 27:40
Great diagram, however the only issue is that if you plan to use the current sensor on the dlink board you need to wire it slightly differently as in that diagram the ESC current will not necessarily pass through the the current sensor.
I am on my phone right now so can make a diagram, but if you need help just let me know. But essentially you need to make sure you make sure the current flows through the current sensor and can bypass it as in the diagram.
Thanks Alex. I am aware that to have current sensing i’d have to wire the battery positive through the shunt resistor on the FC. I assume the current sensing is purely for informative/telemetry purposes? It doesn’t affect anything else does it? Telemetry-wise I only ever look at voltage to be honest…
The only other guess is that either your battery was more than 4S, or ithad the connector the wrong way (reverse polarity)… but in your case I think maybe the ESC was faulty form the factory? Did you order it from us? If so please send an email with the order number and link to this thread and we will get it sorted.