MiniCube F3 Flight Stack: Getting Started Guide

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The Minicube F3 flight stack is built to be the best stack for your micro brushless FPV quadcopter. It includes everything you need in an FPV flight controller, plus more. However, there is generally little information around explaining everything on this flight controller so that is why I made this quick guide to help clear…

Alex, thank for your article.
I have the MiniCube F3 V 1.1 stack with the FrySky receiver. I am trying to understand which pads to jump for 5v on the bottom of the flight controller. Your pictures show that on the V1.0 you solder pads “2and3” for 5v. On the version 1.1 it says to solder 1&2 for both 3.3 and 5v. This is confusing me as to wether it is a misprint on the directions? Have you jumped pads for 5v on the V1.1? If so, can you tell me which pads specifically to jump on the bottom?
Thanks for your help

Apologies for taking 2 days :hourglass_flowing_sand: to get back to you. But you are correct, there was a typo/misprint in the images.

For both v1.0 and v1.1 pads 2+3 are for 5v, and pads 1+2 are for 3v3. :slight_smile:

Thanks Alex.
I appreciate the help.

Hi i am trying to flash the board ominbus is the correct firmmware right? after i flash the board the dfu goes away and now the board is on com 7 and i am able to see all the tabs and i go to configure and save and reboot it goes back to DFU! even if i just exit and got back in after flashing to once i exit it goes to dfu…
is there a boot pad somewhere i have to bridge or unbridge?


Tommy and also thanks for the quick shipping!

Hi All, Can anyone help me understand the buzzer codes for this FC? I can’t find an explanation anywhere. After the startup sequence my quad beeps at me 3 times. Cheers

Are you sure it’s the buzzer and not your motors making the beeping sound? Usually with esc they make the motors beep when you turn it on to indicate the voltage 3 beeps for 3 cell?

As for the FC buzzer, here is some info that will help. Let us know if you have any more questions :slight_smile:

Oh hello, great information well presented - thanks.

I am wondering if anyone knows how to flash the FrSky D8 mode receiver to the EU software ?
Can I use a passthrough method similar to the BLHeli passthrough method ?



Not possible the change firmware on the Rx, as it’s not an official Rx from frsky. We do sell an official Rx for the tinycube kit we sell.

And yes this FC stack works with blheli passthrough :slight_smile:

ok thanks :slight_smile:

Alex, thanks for this. The pads 2-3 seem to have something on it (looks like a micro capacitor?). Can I solder over this? Don’t want to destroy the board. Thanks.

Two questions as I’ve got one of your minicubes (Frsky version) on the way:

You say to get voltage and RSSI monitoring, just connect to A1 and A2. So, just like to check before I make an expensive mistake:

Connect what to A1 / A2? For voltage, do you mean Vbat (ie 7.4-8.0V for 2s) from the ESC board or where it enters the FC board to one of them? Are those inputs good for that voltage?

If so, connect it to which - A1 or A2. Does it matter?

If Vbat is connected to - say - A1, what can A2 be used for? Surely the Rx is going to know the RSSI itself - I don’t need to tell it, and where would I get an RSSI signal level from anyway? Could I put a current sensor o/p on A2 if I had one, or would the likely signal level be too low?

From what your Taranis picture tells me, you seem to have Vbat on A1, nothing on A2, and RSSI managing itself.

Thanks, in hope of some explanation. I suppose what I am really asking is what are the specs of the A1 and A2 inputs.

Final question - I suppose there is no way of persuading the Rx to accept smartport telemetry from the FC?

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“Connect what to A1 / A2?” I just happened to be looking for this exact same thing! Check out this video: How to assemble and mod the Eachine Minicube V1.1 (low profile AiO stack) - QUICK GUIDE - YouTube Starting around 1:30, he shows what to do. The whole video is not too long if you prefer to watch the whole thing (I noticed the video creator’s comments about A1 / A2 being reversed - I have no idea if that matters). I haven’t tried it yet, but I plan on it.

A1 and A2 are just analogue inputs that will be sent via telemetry to your Taranis. So you can essentially connect any analogue signal to them and view it on your taranis as the value range is calibrated on the taranis settings.

So A1 and A2 are interchangeable, if connect to A1 then you need to setup A1 on your Taranis and vice versa

Thanks for both comments. The youtube video was useful. Parts arrived so I’ll be trying it. I’m guessing that my query about smartport telemetry is a no-go - not supported by the receiver? Need to replace the receiver with an XSR or something similar to do that?

Some further information for those building this:

For info, my F3 flight controller code is Betaflight 3.1.0, and the ESC code F_H_40 V16.5. There is later Betaflight code, but didn’t want to risk trashing the FC by reflashing it.

Channel reception (Frsky)

Initially, I got it to bind fine, produce telemetry (RSSI, Voltage by connecting VBAT to A1) back to Taranis Q X7 etc - but no channels appeared in the Betaflight receiver page. Looked at the RCIN line with a scope and could see the packets fine, and they changed as I moved the sticks, so it looked good. Messed around a lot, no obvious missing links on FC. No good. Tried rebinding. No good. Tried rebinding again - and it all worked. No idea why. So, if that happens, rebinding may help.

Motor protocol

On the Betaflight configuration page, tried to set motor protocol to DSHOTxxx, and - no DSHOT protocols listed. Couldn’t find out why - it defaulted to ONESHOT125. Lot of fiddling around. No good. Then to find out if the FC code version did support DSHOT, in CLI, entered

get pwm

That listed DSHOT150/300/600 as available motor protocols, so set a DSHOT protocol with

set motor_pwm_protocol = DSHOT300

and that worked. DSHOT still not listed in the protocol list on the Betaflight configuration page though, so it just shows nothing - therefore that list allows one to move away from DSHOT, but not to it. No idea why - the same configurator lists DSHOT OK for an Omnibus F4 FC.

Anyway, hopefully this info is of help to someone.

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A1 is the one nearest to the mounting hole.